Qatari women are very modest as in most countries in this part of the world. The national dress for women here is covered in modest black with only the eyes visible. The total outfit is beautifully feminine but seems rather difficult to maneuver in.

After seeing these women in the shopping center, it was a surprise the first time we passed one driving along in one of the ever-popular Land Cruisers. She was not only completely covered; she had on an oversized pair of sunglasses! The overall effect is pretty intimidating especially when you stop wondering how she sees what traffic is around her and realize that she doesn’t. She looks straight ahead and plows on. The flip side of this is that these are the more independent women.

With men, women or hired drivers sometimes there are small children climbing around in the car - back and forth over the seats – standing in the front seat – waving to people out of the back window. It is a shock to see children loose in a car – we take it for granted that doesn’t happen any more. When they wave at us with big smiles, it is all I can do not to point at my seatbelt and say “Put it on!”

Drivers Education here takes place in white sedans (similar to the sedan type Toyotas in the eighties) with the letter “L” on the back of the car in red duct tape. We assume this stands for Learner. There is sometimes a red strip running down the side of the car but the “L” is usually pretty easy to spot. The same “L” is on the backs of large lorries (trucks) that sometimes have four people squished into the front seat – all helping the guy behind the steering wheel maneuver through the roundabouts. We see these “L” s frequently as we live on the outskirts of the city and this is where they practice.

Traditionally a female Qatari would only be allowed to have a female instructor for the driving course, but surprisingly we have seen some with male teachers. I still haven’t found out whether the instructor/passenger side has a steering wheel or brake pedals but if I fail my driving test, I will find out the hard way.

The best was the day that we saw an “L” care with both the instructor and the student completely covered with large sunglasses was a shock. I wanted to follow them and watch since the instructor was waving her hands vehemently – maybe suggesting that the student look before pulling out into the roundabout - but my driver refused.

The western female drivers are interesting too! There is no handbook here as to lane usage and expats from some countries are allowed to just exchange their drivers license for a Qatari one with no requirement to learn the rules. Currently, most women arriving from my home country are required to take both a ‘sign’ and an actual driving test (exception being wives of certain large companies’ executives) and I am not sure which is better. Rumor has it that an influential Qatari was denied a license somewhere in my country and was quite angry.

But no worries - I will be out on the road as soon as (a) the newness wears off of my husband’s new car and (b) I get my new glasses (maybe I will be able to find ones with wraparound lenses so I can see in all directions). In the meantime, I am depending on the kindness of friends and interesting taxi drivers.